Some of Sandra Niessen's publications

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Books | Articles and chapters in books | Review articles


2009 forthcoming: Het Tuinmanshuisje in Oosterbeek. Oosterbeek: Uitgeverij Kontrast.

*Legacy in cloth: Batak textiles of Indonesia Leiden: KITLV Press. 568 pps. 900 illns.

2009 Ed: Rita Bolland (1919-2006): Curator of textiles. Bulletin of the Royal Tropical Institute 388. Amsterdam: KIT Publishers. 87 pps.

Niessen, S., Leshkowich, A.M and. Jones, C. *Re-Orienting Fashion:  The Globalization of Asian Dress. Oxford:  Berg Publishers. 283 pps

1998 Brydon, A. and Niessen, S. *Consuming Fashion: Adorning the Transnational Body Oxford: Berg Publishers. 196 pps.
1994 DeBernardi, J.,  Forth, G. and Niessen, S. *Managing Change in Southeast Asia: Local Identities, Global Connections. Proceedings of the 21st Meetings of the Canadian Council for Southeast Asian Studies.  Ottawa.

Hardy, M. and Niessen, S. Exploring New Horizons: Craft Emerges. Department of Human Ecology, University of Alberta

1993 Batak Cloth and Clothing: A Dynamic Indonesian Tradition.  Kuala Lumpur: Oxford University Press. 167 pps., 100 photographs.

*Motifs of Life in Toba Batak Texts and Textiles. Verhandelingen Series of the KITLV No. 110, Dordrecht: Foris Publications.  249 pps.

1982 De Leidse Richting: Toen en Thans (The Leiden “School”: Then and Now), Leiden: ICA/SNWV. 132 pps.
*(peer reviewed)

Books | Articles and chapters in books | Review articles | top

Articles and chapters in books

i.p. (2010) “Interpreting Civilization through Dress” in the first international (10-volume) Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion  Vol 8: West Europe, Part I: Overview of Dress and Fashion in West Europe. Oxford: Berg Publishers, 4,000 words. 
i.p. (2009)

Two-page spread on Batak Textiles In: Paths of Origins: Austronesia in the Collections of The National Museum of the Philippines, The Museum Nasional Indonesia and The Netherlands Rijksmuseum voor Volkenkunde, Purissima Benitez-Johannot (Editor). Singapore/Manila: ArtpostAsia

2008 Les Étoffes Batak: L’Histoire de Deux Cultures. In Au Nord de sumatra Les Batak. Milan: 5 Continents Editions and Paris: Musée du Quai Branly. pp. 55–71.
2007 Het einde van “Bergoord, een herenhuis in Oosterbeek. ”  Schoutambt en Heerlijkheid 21(3):13-44.
2007 “Re-Orienting Fashion Theory” in Welters, L and Abby Lillethun (eds) The Fashion Reader.  Oxford/New York: Berg. pp 105-110.
2005 The Prism of Fashion: Temptation, Resistance and Trade/ Het Prisma van de Mode; Verleiding, Verzet en Handel. In Jan Brand and José Teunissen (eds.) Global Fashion Local Tradition: On the Globalisation of Fashion/Over de globalisering van de mode. Arnhem: ArtEZ hogeschool voor de kunsten, Arnhem and Centraal Museum and Utrecht: Terra. pp. 156-181.
2003 Uit de doeken doen:  Etnografisch textiel in de collectie Bronbeek,” Moesson 47 (7):30-33.
2003 *“Afterword:  Reorienting Fashion Theory”  In Niessen, S.A., A. Leshkowich, and C. Jones (eds.)  Re-orienting Fashion:  The Globalization of Asian Dress.  Oxford:  Berg Publishers.  pp. 243-266
2003 *“Three Scenarios from Batak Clothing History: Designing Participation in the Global Fashion Trajectory”  In Niessen, S.A., A. Leshkowich, and C. Jones (eds.)  Re-orienting Fashion:  The Globalization of Asian Dress.  Oxford:  Berg Publishers.  pp. 49-78
1999 “Cultural Costs of Crafts Development in Indonesia,”  Crafts News 10 (40): 6-7.
1999 *“Threads of Tradition, Threads of Invention:  Unraveling Toba Batak Women’s Expressions of Social Change”  In Ruth B. Phillips and Christopher Steiner (eds.), Unnpacking Culture:  Art and Commodity in Colonial and Postcolonial Worlds.  Los Angeles:  University of California Press. pp. 162 – 177.
1998 *“Introduction:  Adorning the Body” In Brydon, A. and S. Niessen (eds.)  Consuming Fashion:  Adorning the Transnational Body.  Oxford:  Berg Publishers.  pp. ix – xvii.
1998 *“Asian Examples of Craft in Trade: The Social, the Cultural, and the Unsustainable”  In  Suzanne Loker, Linda Good, and Patricia Huddleston (eds.) Softgoods to the World. ITAA Monograph #9. Monument, CO:  ITAA Inc.  pp. 27–37.
1997 *“Representing the Ainu Reconsidered”   Museum Anthropology 20(3): 132 – 144.
1996 “Foreign Penetration of North Sumatra” In Anthony Reid (ed.) Early Modern History, Indonesian Heritage Series.  Singapore: Didier Millet.
1996 “North-Sumatran Weavers in a Global Economy” In Michael C. Howard (ed.), Contemporary Cultural Anthropology, 5th ed. HarperCollins, pp. 116-118.
1994 *“The Ainu in Mimpaku: A Representation of Japan’s Indigenous People at the National Museum of Ethnology” In Museum Anthropology 18(3):1-8.
1994 “Words Can’t Weave Cloth: Limits of the Textual For the Weave Technical” In Lynne Milgram and Penny van Esterik (eds.). The Transformative Power of Cloth in Southeast Asia. Toronto:CCSEAS and The Museum for Textiles, pp. 128-134.
1993  “Changes in Batak Textiles During the 19th Century” In Nabholz-Kartaschoff, Marie-Louise, Ruth Barnes and David Stuart-Fox (eds.) Weaving Patterns of Life.  Indonesian Textile Symposium Proceedings 1991.  Basel:  Museum of Ethnography, pp. 127-134.
1992 “Economics of Batak Weaving” In M. Howard (ed.), Contemporary Cultural Anthropology, 4th ed., 4pp.
1991 “The Tale that 1001 Batak Textiles Tell about 12 European Museums: A Collection History: in Gisela Volger and Karin von Welck (eds.), Indonesian Textiles: Symposium 1985, pp. 132-152.
1991 “Batak Clothing at the Turn of the 19th Century: Working Paper”, Burnaby:  Centre for International Studies, Simon Fraser University, 23 pp.
1991 “Four Unknown Batak Textiles” Arts of Asia 21(5): 159-162.
1991 *“Meandering Through Batak Textiles”  Ars Textrina. 16:7-47.
1991 *“Interpreting Photographs: There’s More To It Than Meets the Eye. Photoelicitation Amongst the Batak of Sumatra” Visual Anthropology. 4:415-430.
1990 “Toba Batak Textile Invention”  Textiles in Trade: Proceedings of The Textile Society of America Biennial Symposium.
1989 “The Sadum”  Tribal Art II: 15-24.  Geneva: Association of the Friends of the Barbier-Mueller Museum.
1989 *“Warp Exchange in the Batak Ragidup and Bulang Textiles” Textile Museum Journal 27/28: 40-55.
1988 “Cognitive Cloths: The Indigenous Classification of Batak Textiles”  In John E. Vollmer (ed.) Textiles as Primary Sources. Proceedings of the First Symposium of the Textile Society of America,  pp. 94-103.
1988 “Modigliani’s Batak Textiles: Evaluation of a Collection”  Archivio per l’Antropologia e la Etnologia 118:57-91.
1985 “Textiles are Female, but what is Femaleness? Toba Batak Textiles in an Indonesian Field of Anthropological Study” In P.E. de Josselin de Jong (ed.), Unity in Diversity: Indonesia as a Field of Anthropological Study, Verhandelingen Series of the KITLV No. 103, pp. 63-83.
1983 *“Toba Batak Matriliny: A Deception?”  Bijdragen tot de Taal-Land-, en Volkenkunde 139/4:465-469.
1982 “Descent versus Exchange in the Batak Tunggal Panaluan Myth”  Working Paper No. 28. Leiden; Institute of Cultural and Social Studies.
*(peer reviewed)

Books | Articles and chapters in books | Review articles | top

Review articles

2006 (i.p.) Exhibition Review: “Nous Autres”. An exhibition in the Ethnographic Museum of Geneva (11 November 2005 -01 April 2007). Unpublished.
2006 (i.p.) Exhibition Review: “La fibre des ancêtres” (“The fibre of the ancestors”: An exhibit of Indonesian textiles in the Ethnographic Museum of Geneva (22 March – 31 December). Unpublished.
2005 Review of David. W. Fraser and Barbara G. Fraser, 2005. Mantles of Merit; Chin Textiles from Myanmar, India and Bangladesh. Bangkok, Thailand: River Books Co. Ltd.. for Bijdragen tot de Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde (BKI)
2005 Review of Maxwell, Robyn, Sari to Sarong; Five Hundred years of Indian and Indonesian textile exchange. 2003. Canberra, National Gallery of Australia  and Dhamija, Jasleen. Woven Magic; The Affinity between Indian and Indonesian Textiles, 2002. Jakarta: Dian Rakyat. For Bijdragen tot de Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde (BKI) 161 2/3, pp. 385-387.
2004 Review of Gavin, Traude, Iban Ritual Textiles. 2003. Leiden: Verhandelingen van het Koninklijk Instituut voor Taal-, Land-, en Volkenkunde 205. KITLV Press.  For Bijdragen tot de Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde BKI.
2003 Exhibition Review:  MoMu: A Stylish Newcomer in the world of Fashion and Museums.  For Material History Review
2003 Review of Linda Welters (ed.), 1999. Folk Dress in Europe and Anatolia:  Beliefs about Protection and Fertility.  Oxford:  Berg Publishers.  Material History Review 56:69-70.
1999 Review of Elisha P. Renne, 1995.  Cloth that does not die:  The Meaning of Cloth in Bunu Social Life.  Seattle and Washington:  University of Washington Press,.  For Ethnologies 21(2):206-209.
1998 Review of Janet Rodenburg, 1998,  In the shadow of migration:  Rural women and their households in North Tapanuli, Indonesia..  Leiden:  KITLV Press (Verhandelingen 174).  For  Bijdragen tot de Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde (BKI). 154(3): 498-501.
1997 Review of Joanne B. Eicher (ed.) 1995. Dress and Ethnicity. Oxford: Berg Publishers . For Culture: The Journal of the Canadian Anthropology Society.
1995 Review of Hamilton, R. (ed.) 1994. Gift of the Cotton Maiden. Fowler Museum of Cultural History and University of California, Los Angeles. For Indonesia Circle 41: 13, 14.
1995 Review of Margot Schevill, Janet Catherine Berlo, and Edward B. Dwyer (eds.) 1991. Textile Traditions of Mesoamerica and the Andes. New York, London: Garland Publishing, Inc.. For Museum Anthropology 19 ( 1), 2 pp.
1994 Review of L. Stephen, Zapotec Women, For Man 29 (2):533-534.
1994 Review of Mary Steedly, Hanging Without a Rope.  For Pacific Affairs 67(3): 472-474.
1993 Review of Jane Gaines and Charlotte Herzog (eds.) Fabrications: Costume and the Female Body. For Cinemas 3, (2/3):247-251.
1992 Review of R. Maxwell, 1990. Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation, and M. Hitchcock, 1991, Indonesian Textiles.  For Museum Anthropology, 1992:82-83.
1991 Review of Mattiebelle Gittinger (ed.),  To Speak With Cloth.  For Museum Anthropology Newsletter 15(1):19-21.
1991 Review of Catherine C. Cole (ed.) Norwegian Immigrant Clothing. For Alberta Museums Review. 2 pps.
1991 Review of Catherine Cooper Cole, The Great Western Garment Company 1911-1939: “Who Threw The Overalls in Mrs. Murphy’s Chowder?”  For Alberta Museums Review. 2 pps.

In addition see: Guest lectures and symposium presentations and, for the latest information for 2009, News and Schedule.

Books | Articles and chapters in books | Review articles